Southern Ethiopia – Arbaminch to Turmi

Emerald Resort and Lodge in Arbaminch.

Stunning views.

Such exhausting work this traveling.

Baboons outside our room.

This morning’s village visit turned out to be a disappointment because the guide did not speak English but the drive the rest of the way to Turmi sure was not.

The roads are a challenge to drive. If they are not full of pot holes they are filled with people and animals.

Bee hives were evident in many of the trees we passed.

Young boys are seen everywhere on the road dancing the hip dance for a few birr, the national currency.

Examples of terraced farming in the area to help eliminate erosion.

The rock work in front of this home is also evident on all the terraces for farming.

Omo tribal homes.

Two girls from the village.

Traditional material used for skirts and pants for the people in the area.

At a lunch stop every child around came out to sell us something so instead I had them pose for a photo and paid them 5 birr each, the standard amount per person for taking a photo.

Women carrying feed for animals.

Firewood lined up along the road for sale.

What a way to get you to stop your vehicle.

Restaurant from the outside at the Burska lodge in Turmi.

Ethiopia – Gondar

On January 19 we went to Gondar for Epiphany or Timkat as it is called in Ethiopia.. The Eastern Orthodox church focuses on Jesus’s baptism. It is a huge celebration where all the churches in the area parade their representation of the ark of the covenant, or tableau, to the celebration site. The original ark is reputed to be held in Axum. The site contains a huge swimming pool which is filled once a year. The water is blessed by the priests and all the pilgrims and locals attend the baptism, some swimming in the water some just sprinkling it on themselves. It was a 2 ½ hour drive each way and though we left at 6 in the morning we got there after the priests had blessed the water and were leaving the site.

Once the priests left, the sea of people pushing to get into the site was quite over whelming. We lost John as he got pushed over but the wall of people kept him up and many came to his rescue. It took us awhile to relocate him.

Yehalam, Gina and David out side the pool.

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Before returning to Bahir Dar we went for a smorgasbord lunch in a restaurant with a lovely view of the city.

The drive back was slow as many of the little towns along the way were still celebrating in the streets as they returned their tableaus to their churches.

You can see the people ahead of the trucks ladened with cotton. We made a detour in this village following a local through the back roads.

We had a lovely dinner that evening at Abiyota’s home with his wife and three daughter’s.

Preparing a traditional coffee ceremony complete with greenery and the roasting of the green coffee beans. Delicious.

Ethiopia – Bahir Dar

Today we attended an official opening of one of the Foundation’s schools. What an over the top experience! We had such fun riding on the Cosco’s coat tails! When we got out of the vehicle at the school, approximately 25 horses and riders arrive to usher us into the seated area in the trees for the celebration where all the officials from the Department of Education for the region were present.

The ox which was to be slaughtered for the banquet, was on display.

Dancers preformed.

The shoulder dance preformed by all the riders.

Classrooms were visited.

The crowd followed along and cheered.

The chalkboards painted on walls were a suggestion made by Bob Sharp when he visited from Whitehorse and worked in some of the schools.

Heading back to the trees after the classroom visits.

The crowd gathered for the killing of the ox.

It was butchered and the cooking began.

Official ribbon cutting ceremony with David and the officials.

The special bread was cut, with Gina helping out.

Coffee beans were roasted, coffee made and served with the bread.

Speeches were made

and gifts distributed.

The neighbouring community presented a cow and sheep for the community celebration.

Being a horse lover I got a treat.

The banquet in the new classroom consisted of raw and cooked meat. This is a platter of freshly killed ox.

Cooked ox and sheep were also featured.

The meat was served with injera along with beer, whisky and home made arake in the little glass.

After the banquet the neighboring community school council took all dignitaries to a bar. Gina and I were the only females. At one point I counted 34 men. Likewise, the only women at the celebration were those who were helping out.

Saying goodbye.

Lastly on the way back to the hotel we stopped at a distinguished teacher’s home for more coffee, meat and injera. He was honoured to have Gina and David as guests in his house. A sign of respect is to feed people personally, so we were all individually fed by him.

Ethiopia – Bahir Dar

During our time in Bahir Dar we visited six of the nine Foundation schools with the Coscos and their staff.

Trees have been planted to provide shade.

For outdoor classrooms and to cool the rooms that get overheated in the afternoons.

Fruit trees have been planted to teach students about agriculture.

Systems have been put in place for their development.

and were being put in place while we were there.

The students at all the schools we visited attend in shifts, are seated in classes between 50 and 80 per class and are very respectful and attentive at all times. This particular school was preparing for an open house while were here this day.

A current school that is next in line to be replaced.

The overcrowding in the current classroom of very enthusiastic children.

The site for the new school.

A school currently under construction.

We observed a number of classes both primary and high school and were asked for our input regarding teaching methods and class organization.

I was even able to teach in a few KG classrooms. It was such fun. The children are delightful.

Kg children are asked what they want to be when they grow up and it is posted in the room along with their picture.

Ethiopia – Bahir Dar

I went to the Doctor again as the antihistamines were not working. My welts turned out to be dust mite bites. Vicious insects. The Doctor recommended keeping tight clothes on as a prevention.

On Sunday we flew to Bahir Dar. Our hotel and room were lovely.

Here we met Gina and David Cosco from Whitehorse who run The Frances G. Cosco Foundation in Amhara Region. They work collaboratively with local communities, government and other NGOs on education improvement projects. Their work includes facilities, teacher training, school greening, water sanitation and hygiene, and outcome measurement and research. You can check their website at FGC Foundation.org

Below from left to right are Girma, Gina, Abiyot, Yehalim (the Foundation’s Executive Director) and David in front of one of the new schools under construction.

The day after arriving we visited sights in and around Bahir Dar which is the third largest city in Ethiopia. Khat fields on the outskirts.

From this lookout you can see Lake Tana in the distance and the Blue Nile below. You can also see the khat farms in the foreground. We were told 90 % of males and 36% of females use khat daily, though that seems like an exaggerated number to us.

Along the sides of the road you can see the sun being used to dry a variety of foods.

Our first hippo sighting

and monkey sightings too.

Amazing how high the loads can be.

Lake Tana .

On a subsequent day we visited the Blue Nile.

Ferry across the river for a hike to the falls.

School bus.

New fields being ploughed. The whip cracking was a distinctive sound on our hike.

Fields of onions being tended to.

Sugar cane being planted.

The Blue Nile falls.

Swinging bridge over a deep ravine put in by an NGO so farmers can take their products to the market.

Returning from the hike for the bumpy ride back to town. High school students in the background with their green uniforms on.

Ethiopia – Harar

The Old City in Harar is an ancient historical site. It is one square kilometer and thirty thousand people live within its walls. There are five gates into the city.

There are many traditional homes in the city that you can visit and stay in. The homes contain subtle information. For instance if you curl back the carpet you are sitting on and a reed carpet is evident underneath you know the household has a marriageable daughter or daughters. If you look above the doorway the number of rolled carpets will tell you how many. Where you sit and sleep is indicative of your status in the family.

We hired Hailu for a four hour tour of the market. His number is +251913072931. He was excellent.

To preserve the city no changes can be made to the structures but painting is permitted. Before celebrations new painting becomes evident.

The Smugglers’ Market. Being a traditionally Muslin community, women cannot be searched by men so many items are smuggled into the country under their hijabs. Our guide was pleased to show off the boots he got here.

Women choose the fabric they like and take it to any of the many tailors available.

Colorful market sights.

Never any waste.

Sugarcane ladened donkeys.

Baskets specially woven to hold injera.

Truck loads of khat being brought to market. khat is a narcotic plant, chewed by a very high percentage of men in the country and exported to many countries around the world. It is a problem because it is addictive, and farmers are choosing to grow it rather than food crops, because it is much more lucrative. There are plenty of social and public health problems associated with it as well.

Women selling khat.

Injera.

Our guide started this activity with the kites for his tours and to provide a little money to the camel meat shops.

A worker holds up a piece of meat, and the kites, who are roosting on the roof, swoop down and very adroitly snatch it from his hand or head or even in mid-air.

The lovely hotel cook who made a special soup for John when she heard he was sick.

Ethiopia – Harar

On Jan 9 we traveled to Dire Dawa by plane. An airport scene.

From Dire Dawa we rode 43 k to Harar, a predominantly Muslim area, Stopping for water.

We were overwhelmed by the sights of poverty, congestion, color and animals.

View from our hotel.

When we arrived at the hotel we immediately left with another traveler to see the man who feeds the hyenas. The man’s father became famous when a National Geographic story was written about him. Now the son feeds the hyenas every night. He said there are over 150 that come. He kept calling them in a low throaty sound and throwing meat to them. This day there were not many as it was mating season and the dominant female was not there.

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I woke up at 4:30 with a terrible itchy rash. I had been itchy for a few days but this morning the itch erupted into red bumps. I felt like I had measles or chicken pox. The night watchman at the hotel got us a tuktuk or bajaj, as they call them and accompanied us to the hospital where I saw a doctor and got antihistamines. Our so helpful night watchman.

When I got back from the hospital I accompanied these two fellow travellers to the camel market 53 k from Harar, Richard from Worcestershire, England and Alex from Sao Paulo , Brazil. John was sick and stayed behind..

Responsible so young for the family’s animals.

Men dye their hair red if they have been to Mecca or if they are planning to go.

Young men at the market.

End of the market.

Driving back to Harar.

Ethiopia – Lalibela

Henoch, 251911806229, took us to St. George’s Church, the one I am sure is the most photographed in Lalibela.

Check out John’s new walking stick loaned to him by Henoch.

We traveled 43 k out of town to see a church built inside a cave.

Every possible space used.

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Packs for the donkeys are made out of old barrels.

We had lunch with Henoch and his girlfriend Tsgiemarysm.

And a dinner of Duro Wat with Yared and his family that evening.

Ethiopia – Lalibela

On Christmas morning Yared picked me up at 6:30 for the Christmas morning service. John’s hip prevented him from negotiating the press of humanity. Yared managed yet again to get me an excellent vantage point. I am still amazed that he was able to navigate through the crowd that was all going in the same direction.

The Red Cross had a station set up for any emergencies.

Right behind the carpeted area was my vantage point.

These were the bishops and priests that occupied the chairs.

This man called while all the priests on the periphery high above the church responded.

A very special Christmas indeed!

Ethiopia – Lalibela

On Orthodox Christmas Eve,Jan 6, Yared picked me up at 7:30 for the Christmas Eve service. The entire area around and in the church was a mass of pilgrims.

The service was projected on TV screens so that those not able to get in to get a close look could still see the service. The pilgrims chanted as they waited.